- Pick a good location. This concept is basic to all photography, but is even more important when taking spherical images. I find you need to be in proximity to a tall object, or in a valley or canyon for the final image to be successful. You usually don't want 50% of your image to be sky. The camera should be about 1.5m from any object, including the ground.
- Attach your camera to your panorama rig with the lens' optical center at the center of rotation. This is something you should do before you venture into the field. If you are "just winging it", then make sure you are not closer than 3m to an object otherwise you may have too much parallax to correct in software.
- Level your rig. Use bubble levels to make sure your horizontal rotator is level and use a secondary bubble level on the camera to unsure your vertical rotator has the camera level. The first frame will be the "key" frame from which all angular measurements are made for subsequent frames. If this frame is not level, then the horizon in your panorama will appear as a sine wave, which can be corrected - but who needs that hassle?
- Set the camera to manual exposure and manual focus. If you are not shooting high-dynamic-range sequences, then expose for the brightest portion of the scene. Manually set you focus to the hyperfocal point for your lens/aperature. Attach a cable release.
- Shoot a horizontal series of frames with 50% overlap. My lens allows me to shoot a frame every 45° to achieve correct overlap.
- Shoot the zenith and nadir points. I shoot the nadir twice; first by pointing straight down to the top of the tripod, which is useful for stitching; second by hand holding the camera in the same approximate postion but with the tripod out of frame, which is useful for faking the nadir in the final spherical image. You should end up with a series of pictures similar to the photo on this page.
Friday, December 08, 2006
Shooting Panoramas
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
Getting Started with 360° Spherical Panoramas
Gear
I get a request from time to time asking about how to get started with panoramas so here's a brief introduction to the gear you will need.- Digital camera - get the widest lens possible shy of a true fisheye (trust me on this). I use a 10.5mm DX Nikon lens or a 12-24mm DX Nikon zoom at 12mm for my panos.
- Cable release
- Dual axis bubble level, the type that fits into your flash hot shoe.
- Pano head - There are many out there but I recommend the Nodal Ninja if you're just starting out or you plan to always have it with you - it is very small. Really Right Stuff makes the best, but it's quite expensive.
- Tripod - something very solid and with a ball head. Remember you are going to be taking LOTS of images from a single point and you don't want any movement at all.
- Software - PTGui for stitching your images together. Photomatix if you're doing high dynamic range preprocessing - highly recommended for outdoor panoramas where light levels vary widely in a single shot. Pano2QTVR for converting equirectangular panoramas to Quicktime VR. Photoshop for tweaking sharpness, contrast and brightness.
Stay tuned on how to use this gear to make panoramas.
Saturday, October 07, 2006
Dusk at Bryce Canyon
Waiting for sunset here at Inspiration Point is interesting because many people show up for the event, yet miss the best part. During the ten minutes or so after sunset the sky turns to beautiful pastels and soft, cold, quietness settles on the scene, producing this beautiful image.
Wednesday, August 09, 2006
Half Dome from Glacier Point
This hyperpolic projection is related to the polar projection, yet it gives me far more control over subject emphasis than polar projections. You can still see in every direction, but as you can see, emphasis can be directed to any subject within the sphere.
The only drawback I forsee with this method is that a series of these photographs will tend to "look" similar even though their subject matter varies. -- We'll see.
Sunday, July 23, 2006
Yosemite Polar
This photo was shot on a Monday afternoon when crowds were small at Glacier Point but alas, I couldn't keep them still long enough to get all the frames done. I considered taking another set, but since I was perched on the edge of a 3000' drop, I thought I'd better not try my luck.
There is a lot of detail in this image; you can see Nevada Falls, Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls, and the Ahwahnee Hotel.
Friday, July 07, 2006
SF MOMA
The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art is itself a work of art which complements the exhibitions on display. It is an experience as much as it is performance art - enjoy the interaction of other visitors with the spaces and the exhibitions. Ideas float through the air in all directions; for me, some work and some do not.
Highly recommended.
Tuesday, July 04, 2006
Looking Both Ways
Saturday, May 20, 2006
Torpedo Room
Monday, May 15, 2006
Farm Shed
The location is a small farm near the northern tip of Pt. Reyes; the photographs were take in cloudy (foggy) bright conditions, which helped tremendously with natural saturation and fine detail.
Friday, April 28, 2006
Baker Beach
Wednesday, April 19, 2006
Glass Blower HDR
I needed help getting her hair to look right so I used this technique to some success.
Saturday, April 15, 2006
Light Scatter Over Distance
Friday, April 14, 2006
Butterfly
Wednesday, April 12, 2006
Ahwahnee Great Room
I just love doing these polar panoramas from interesting places I visit. The "normal" panorama from which this is created is spectacular in its own right, but this has a more interesting perspective.
It's best viewed at larger sizes so you can get "inside" the space.
The normal version
Monday, April 10, 2006
Restful Nest
Spring Flowers
Overcast days like this automatically turn up the saturation in images without having to do anything special.
Tuesday, April 04, 2006
Piers
Monday, April 03, 2006
Mars Encounter, Inside Out
Sunday, April 02, 2006
Shrimp Boat
Saturday, April 01, 2006
Flickr group produces astonishing color pix with new HDR plugin
read more | digg story
Monday, January 09, 2006
How to be the Best Living American Photographer
We can talk all we want about technical issues: sharpness, contrast, detail in the extremities, but that's not what a photograph is about. We can talk about composition, balance, color and contrast; but again these attributes do not a photograph make.
A message, more or less explicit that the written word, is the aspect of an image which makes it successful or not. It can be forthright, concealed or subconsciously understood, but it is essential to create a reaction from the viewer. I've come to realize that in our modern world there are so many images to which we respond that their creators have generally opted for an immediate impact, an instant message. But in the arena of fine photography, the message can be quite elusive or difficult to interpret; somewhat like a symphony or a poem. And herein lies the pleasure for this photographer.
Interpreting the photographer's message in an image is the reason people look them. And when a message is absent or obscure to the viewer, that viewer will lower their esteem for the image, as a naive viewer of the Mona Lisa might. As a photographer, I want people to understand what I'm trying to convey in my images more than anything else. Even if they don't like the message, getting the message makes the photograph successful.
Successfully conveying a message using an image is difficult and problematic because we don't have a lingua franca we can utilize when we construct a photograph. Viewers schooled in classical art will have different criteria for an image than someone schooled in graphic design. And so as a viewer of photography, we have to discern the "language" through which the photographer is speaking. In music, some people like the baroque style and some do not; and in photography some people like a photographer's style or not. And some people can't recognize the language at all.
Getting back to the greatest living American photographer. Let's look at one of Lee Friedlander's images and try to understand the message he crafted into the photograph.
So we have this three dimensional object surrounded by two dimensional shadows, one of which is created by the photographer - a self portrait. The irony, of course, is this is an inverted portrayal of what a photographer intrinsically does - takes a three dimensional world and compresses it into two dimensions. Here he is out of place (outside) and alone where there should be others.
Based on this photograph we might infer that to interpret Lee Friedlander we look for:
- Irony or humor
- Ordinary objects
- Odd juxtaposition
- Unstylized composition
- Self deprecation
- Clever use of shadows and reverse images
Use these criteria to decypher other of his images and you can refine your Friedlander codex and enjoy perusing his work for years to come. I am sure that those whom have declared him the best living American photographer have their own codex by which they evaluate his specific pieces as conforming or not. A quintiessential Friedlander would comply on all accounts. His message is interpreted by the interaction of these factors in the viewer's mind; and sometimes there can be multiple interpretations.
It's not merely his specific set of traits or techniques that make him a great photographer. Its the consistent use of these characteristics in a large body of work. At some point the viewer can think in "Friedlander" and easily understand his ideas. I can only hope to be able to accomplish this with my work. Salieri wants to be Mozart.
I don't get to decide who has created a consistent broad style over a body of work which conveys witty ideas to those whom have taken the time to analyze it. But I can say I know why they think Lee Friedlander is the greatest living American photographer.
Regards,
Steven dosRemedios